A new month, a new pattern test!
This time it was the newest pattern from Designer Stitch, the Dylan Pants. They’re a fitted style of pants with some interesting features that can be made up in a variety of stretch wovens.
I made the slim-leg, ankle-length variety using stretch denim from…somewhere. It has been in my stash for a while now and I’m glad it was because sewing shops have been closed and the post is backlogged with more important deliveries than my fabric fix!
First up: I’m forever grateful that Designer Stitch patterns come with an A0/Copyshop version. Gone are the days where I would spend an hour taping 58 individual pieces of A4 paper together on our hard wood floor. Instead, I just sent the pattern off to my beloved Die Plotterei and received my printed copy the next day.
The pattern has a fair few pieces. Each leg is made of four panels (two in the front and two in the back). The waistband has a front and back piece, facing and side panel inserts for the front and then there are the pockets. Never fear though, these pants came together quickly! I had mine done in an afternoon.
The instructions are detailed and the construction method is new to me for a pair of pants, (to make sure your topstitching is beautiful!) so it was a nice pattern to learn something new.
*I’d like to note here that while my spellcheck is adamant I mean to say ‘knickers’ instead of pants, in Australian English ‘pants’ means ‘trousers’. Sorry Brits!
Back on topic: We all know we should make a toile when sewing with a new pattern and this is rarely more important than when sewing pants! I made a size three with the following fit adjustments: shortening the front rise; lengthening the back rise; full thigh adjustment; shortening the leg length, and otherwise tapering the legs as needed.
I had the benefit of already having sewn a pair of pants using a Designer Stitch pattern (the Harper pants), so I was able to transfer a lot of my adjustments from previous experience – which sped up the process. I also referred to the helpful series of blog posts Ann, the pattern designer at Design Stitch, wrote about fitting pants. Closet Case patterns has a great pants fitting guide too.
It was worth it! I love that these are easy to throw on when I want to look put together but still be comfortable (aka constant video conferences for work) and these are great for our weird spring when it’s not quite warm enough for skirts and dresses, but I’m well and truly over my winter garb.
Overall, I think this pattern would be suitable for people with intermediate sewing skills because of the fitting required. That being said, there are no closures in this pattern (it calls for stretch wovens and has elastic in the back – there is a zipper option for those who prefer it though), so a confident beginner could certainly give it a try!
Pattern: Dylan Pants
Designer: Designer Stitch
Designed for: Stretch wovens
Fabric choice: Stretch Denim
Size: 3 (My measurements are – Height: 159cm/5’2, Bust: 88cm, Waist 73cm, Hips 96cm)
Modifications: Full thigh adjustment; Shortening the front rise; Lengthening the back rise; Shortening the leg length, and otherwise tapering in the legs as needed
Difficulties or future changes: Add a swayback adjustment
Recommend for: Intermediate